Motoblag

One of the bulbs in my 599′s running lights burned out at the end of last season.  They are PIAA 004XTs and do a wonderful job filling in more light when riding, with the additional benefit of increasing conspicuity.

After some digging I found they can take regular replacement H3 bulbs, so I acquired two and replaced them.  Here are some photos of the job, so others can see how it’s done.  Click the photos for full sized version.

Start by gently prying at the drain hole with a screwdriver or appropriate tool.  The lens assembly is held in by three plastic clips that just pop out.  Here’s one:

Once out all the way, pry back on the spring shown here on the left.  This will allow you to rock the old bulb out:

Then, wiggle the light out:

Replace the bulb, making sure not to touch it with your fingers.  Reinstall the wiring and press the lens assembly back into the housing, making sure the plastic clips all properly seat.

Step 1: Gather your tools.  We’ll need some DOT4 brake fluid, a bleeding tool, a container to empty the used brake fluid from the bleeder into, a Phillips head screwdriver and an 8 mm box-end wrench.

Step 2: open up the front brake master cylinder reservoir:

The old fluid is starting to look nasty:

Step 3: (optional) Remove old fluid from master cylinder with a turkey baster.  I didn’t do this step.

Step 4: crack open the bleeder valve with your 8mm wrench.  We’re just breaking it loose, then re-tightening it.

Step 5: Bleed the brakes!  Keep the box wrench on the bleeder and slip the bleeder hose over the bleeding nipple.  If your bleeder is new this may take a bit of effort.

The bleeding procedure is as follows:

1. With the bleeding valve closed, apply and hold the brake (you can put your hand like this picture or over the top as the next picture shows):
   
2. While still holding the front brake, loosen the bleeder valve.  The brake will close:
   
3. Hold the brake there and close the bleeder valve by tightening it.  No need to slam it shut, but be firm.
4. Release the brake.  The master cylinder will pull fresh fluid from the reservoir.  If needed, top off the reservoir from your container of DOT4 fluid.  Repeat from step 1 until the brake fluid looks clear.
   
5. Move on to the other caliper and repeat from step 1.  Once that caliper is done, the front brakes are complete!  Refill the master cylinder reservoir, put the rubber part with plastic backing on the top and fasten the metal plate securely on top with the screws.  Be gentle with the screws, they can easily strip.

The rear brake follows the same procedure.  The master cylinder is behind the side panel:

It comes apart by unscrewing the top:

Then removing the plastic/rubber bellows:

The rear brake bleeding nipple is the bit with the rubber cap facing up.  It’s 8mm like the front bleeders, so use your box wrench and follow the same steps used in the front brake.

The rear brake is fun because you get to do a show involving a hand on the wrench, a foot on the brake pedal and a hand on the bike’s frame or fuel tank to keep it from tipping over.

Once all the brakes are done you can rest easy knowing your brakes are up to snuff!  Just look at that wonderfully clean fluid in the front:

A while ago I picked up a nail in the rear tire:

Time to get to changing it!  I gathered my supplies:

Let the air out and pull the valve core with your special tool:

Break the bead:

MOJOLEVER, ATTACK!

Frontal assault by soap and water:

OVER THE TOP, MEN!

Work it around:

Start the second bead:

And done with the old tire:

Balance it with your Sears brand static balancer:

New tire goes on after marking the heavy spot on the rim:

Second bead goes on after the assistant comes home with groceries:

Final balancing:

Seatin’ the beads:

Reinstall the rear tire and ride!

Best use of that one dollar can of shaving goop!  As usual, click for bigger images.

Step 1: gather materials and clean surface:

Step 2: apply shaving cream, spread evenly:

Make sure to cover as much of the inside of the visor as possible.

Step 3: let dry:

Step 4: lightly buff for visibility:

This needs more buffing:

This is fine:

After 20,000 miles of service, the OEM chain and sprocket set on my 2004 Honda 599 finally needed replacement. The chain was not holding adjustment nearly as long as it should and it had a link or two that were starting to get a little sticky. I ordered some OEM RK replacement drive train parts and went to town. Along the way, I took pictures to help guide other 599 owners for this straightforward DIY maintenance.

Gather your new chain and sprockets:

Get the bike to your work space:

Pop off that front sprocket cover:

Mount the bike, stand on the rear brake and use a breaker bar (cheater bar) to get the front sprocket bolt loose. It’s a standard bolt, so lefty-loosey!

Loosen the rear axle nut and chain adjusters:

Grind a plate flush to make it easier on your chain tool:

Apply chain tool to drive the pin through the other side:

Remove chain:

Lift rear of bike:

Remove rear tire, including rear brake caliper:

Compare old and new sprockets and chain:

Remove old front sprocket and install new front sprocket:

Cut new chain to length, if needed.

Install new rear sprocket and double-check orientation:

Before reinstalling the rear tire, verify the wheel bearings operate smoothly and lightly wipe any gunk out of the area. Reinstall rear wheel without forgetting the spacers:

Thread new chain into the front and rear sprocket:

Install new master link, getting O-rings on both sides:

Clamp the plates together until they are the same thickness as the other links:

Use the pin flaring part of your chain tool to push open the rivet to hold the side plate on:

Adjust the chain to a ballpark of the correct tension and use the marks on the swingarm to get the alignment close.

After the rear tire is back in, you can lower the rear of the bike again and fine-tune the chain slop and rear wheel alignment.

That’s it! Go for a ride and make sure things feel right and congratulate yourself on a job well done.

Let’s get over some fear! Tire changing isn’t horribly difficult. No longer do you have to be a slave to the local motorcycle shop’s hours of operation and prices! Changing your own tires saves money no matter what kind of riding you do. Riders who use sticky tires and put a lot of miles on their bikes will save a lot of money by changing their own tires.

• Get started: One of the cheapest and easiest ways to get into tire changing is to pick up the Harbor Freight manual tire changer with motorcycle attachment. Pick up a Mojolever mount/dismount bar to protect your rims. While you’re there, you can buy some wheel weights for a decent price. Other materials needed: a pair of jackstands or some 2x4s.
• Set it up: You’ll need to make sure you have a way to lift your motorcycle and remove the wheel on which you’ll be swapping tires. You will also need a way of mounting the tire changer so it doesn’t spin. I’ve heard mounting it to a large chunk of plywood works well. In my garage, I drilled some large holes in the concrete and installed some lag shield anchors. They stay flush with the floor so no worries about breaking or snagging anything. Also, use some Plasti-Dip (found in hardware stores) to put a protective layer of rubbery material on the clamps that hold your rim.
• Remove the wheel: Get the appropriate end of the bike securely in the air and pull the wheel.
• Change the tire: There’s plenty of great guides on this. Also, the Mojolever web site has instructions.
• Balance the tire: Use the jackstands or 2x4s with the axle from the wheel to get them balanced. A good static balance will cover you to acceptable road speeds and beyond.
• Reinstall the wheel: Reinstall and put the bike back on the ground.
• Scrub in the new tire: Most new tires have a slippery mold release compound on them. This makes the first few rides you put on the tire very exciting. Some riders use sandpaper to scrub off the mold release compound.

What do we save by doing this?

After spending about $120 for the tire changer and attachment, $111 for the Mojolever and weights, we’ve spent $231. Assuming you have to pay $30 a wheel to get your tires changed by a shop, after you’ve changed eight tires you are ahead in the game. Eight tires may sound like an excessive amount, but it’s pretty easy to burn through two, three or four tires a season. If you have friends, you could even charge them pizza and beer to change their tires and you’ll come out ahead even faster.

To me, the biggest advantage is not having to play by someone else’s schedule. Many people work the hours motorcycle shops are open so it’s difficult to get your motorcycle in for tire changes. These riders have to sacrifice part of their weekend to get their bike in and wait for the tire change. When you do it yourself, you can change your tires when you get home from work and ride all weekend. After all, every rider wants to spend more time on the road.

Resources

The quintessential guide: Changing tires by Adam Glass on clarity.net.

Pictorial guide: Changing tires with the Harbor Freight setup and Mojolever.

Get a few packages of tennis balls and some orange safety paint. Use a knife to slice the balls in half. Paint half of the halves with orange paint.

There’s some cheap, small cones for your parking lot drills.